heating element wrench
What is that smell? Volume II
Of all the articles I have written entitled "What is that smell?" has been the most popular. I cross post some of my articles in some Ezine (the magazine of Internet slang) sites for more exposure and the opportunity to help more people. In this article consistently gets most of the readings and comments, and the problem remains one of the most discussed in chat rooms and forums. Now the problem in my house probably due to too much fiber in my diet and handle it with an industrial strength air freshener air, but most everyone else has septic or sewer gas (Methane) seeps into the house as I discussed in that article. Another problem infringer, the smell of rotten eggs, not in the water room is caused by sulfur dioxide. This rotten egg odor is especially true for people who have well water. The reason for passing this smell is due to the iron in well water and iron leech cast iron pipe of age in old houses. Water heaters do not tolerate this iron content. The smell that happens when the iron in the water comes in contact with the bar aluminum anode in the tank, the purpose of the anode rod is to act as a recipient of the sacrifice of impurities entering the tank and how does that dissolves slowly. This bar has to be replaced by magnesium. The rod is located at the top of the tank usually behind and between the supply of hot and cold water and it seems to a large walnut. A new magnesium anode will cost about $ 25 and only need to change a whole or making a key. Monitoring shows the steps simple to facilitate this replacement:
Step 1 Turn the gas control valve to the position of the pilot or the automatic switch disconnect power to the Water Heater. Turn the water supply to the tank. Empty the tank completely. There should be a hose bib connection at the bottom the range in which you can connect a garden hose and drain closest to the leak or running outdoors. To be safe from danger burns let the heater cool down before draining.
Step 2 Remove the anode rod aluminum rod to loosen the age of the top with a connector of appropriate size or a wrench and replace the magnesium rod.
Step 3 The security of your water heater is based on the thickness of the anode rod in a 6 year warranty dissolves the anode rod in the 5th year in a tank for 9 years in year 8 and so on. If you read the manual, in some cases, states that if you remove the rod will void the warranty. Whether choosing a thick rod corresponding to the age of the tank so that the solution will be coordinated with life expectancy of the tank. If you only have 5 years left in the tank is not necessary to install a bar of 8 years.
Step 4 Once that is accomplished the removal and replacement of the rod is time to wash the tank. With the valve boiler drain at the bottom of the tank open, open water for short spurts to remove as much iron sediment from the bottom of the tank. You may have to repeat this several times to remove everything you can to eliminate the tank.
Step 5 You should now be ready to fill the tank. Close the boiler drain below. Open the pressure relief valve to allow air to escape and turn the water supply again. Turn at least one Hot Water faucet in the house to the water pipes do not fill with air, which will your faucet run dry and can contribute to water hammer. Close the pressure relief valve when you see the water and then turn off the faucet.
Step 6 (Optional) To limit the amount of iron entering your plumbing in the future to install a sediment filter in the inlet of its water supply. The cost average should be $ 40.00. This will also help keep clean the faucet aerators and increase the water pressure if it inhibits clogged aerators.
Step 7 Now you are ready for the gas valve back to the on position or turn the circuit breaker back on.
Note you can record your heating elements in a hot water heater restarting without water in it, so make sure you have completely filled before restarting.
Hopefully this will eliminate the smell of your water problem. If the smell is coming from a leak or if the smell in the room when you walk, Please refer to my original article mentioned at the beginning.
About the Author
Im a retired disabled accountant with vast knowledge in the DIY area having built several houses and worked on my own projects for 30+ years. I spend most of my days reading and responding to over 30 forums and discussion groups.
I currently author and manage a blog site for a friend's builder supply business. I include personally written articles on the subject of home and home repair along with featured specials on products offered by the company
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